Sometimes the motorcycle ergonomics guys get it right, sometimes not. Whether you're planning to take your bike to the track or just want to personalize the seating position, chances are rearsets--replacement footpegs, carriers, pedals and linkages--could change your bike's ergos for the better. Follow along as we bolt on a set of LSL rearsets to our project Yamaha FZ1.

1. Remove the old footpegs and carriers as a unit, being careful to note the location and orientation of any rubber or steel washers.		2. Check the orientation of the backing plates and figure out if any shims will be used.		3. Begin assembling the bits by greasing the shift-lever pivot assembly.
4. Pay particular attention to the orientation of the mount and make sure you install any spacers required.		5. Next up, thread the standoff for the shift rod into the lever.		6. Now you can bolt the carrier to the bike using Loctite.
7. When you're finished securing the shifting components, move to the other side. Loosely bolt everything together before you affix the carriers to the frame.		8. One of the most vexing parts of a rearset installation is connecting the brake-light switch. The LSL set provides a new perch for the switch, shown here just waiting for a shortened wire to connect the plunger to the pin on the brake pedal.		9. Install the footpegs, once again making sure to use your Loctite.

You'll need the usual assortment of tools, plus a thread-locking compound; in this case, make sure you have a tube of Loctite Blue. Remove the old footpegs and carriers as a unit (1), being careful to note the location and orientation of any rubber or steel washers. Don't put all the old hardware away just yet, because some rearsets reuse stock components. (For example, on the FZ1 installation, the forward Heim joint on the shift rod is retained.) Nonetheless, when you finish the job, you'll want to store and label all the original bits.

The main thing to remember here is to loosely assemble all the parts before you start spraying Loctite and torquing everything down. Oh, read the directions, too. Check the orientation of the backing plates (2) and figure out if any shims will be used. For example, these LSL rearsets for the FZ1 use a pair of spacers behind the carrier.

Begin assembling the bits by greasing the shift-lever pivot assembly (3). On these and many other rearsets, the footpegs and levers ride on a common shaft that's bolted to the carrier. Pay particular attention to the orientation of the mount and make sure you install any spacers required (4). Failure to do so will make the shifter and brake feel sloppy and may even create clearance problems.

Next up, thread the standoff for the shift rod into the lever (5). Now you see why you should dry-fit everything. Although the thread for the shift-rod screw is countersunk on the outside, indicating the bolt should go in from the outside, the part provided with this kit was not long enough and had to be installed from the backside. Now you can bolt the carrier to the bike (6) using Loctite. Notice the generous use of Loctite to keep the shift-rod bolt in place. With everything in place, you can begin tightening things up. Don't forget the footpeg/shifter pivot bolt. Make a guess at the length of the shift rod and perform a final tightening once all the parts are on the bike and you've had a chance to see if the peg/shifter/brake locations are where you like them.

When you're finished securing the shifting components, move to the other side (7). Loosely bolt everything together before you affix the carriers to the frame. One of the most vexing parts of a rearset installation is connecting the brake-light switch. The LSL set provides a new perch for the switch (8), shown here just waiting for a shortened wire to connect the plunger to the pin on the brake pedal.

Install the footpegs (9), once again making sure to use your Loctite. Next, hop on the bike and see how the levers are aligned. Once you've set them to your liking, cinch the locking hardware and you're done.

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