Directions Use clean Showa inverted forks to perform the following. Some steps can be omitted if Gold Valves are not being installed. Remove the forks from the bike before starting the work sheet. Gold Valves are a registered name from Race Tech. If Gold Valves are not installed on your forks, substitute the words Gold Valve with Base Valve or compression valve since that is what they are called on stock forks. This worksheet can be used for most Showa inverted forks with stock base valves or Race Tech's Gold Valves. It cannot be used on Twin Chamber Showa forks. Know your limits. If you have any problems, contact a suspension specialist. Perform the work at your own risk.

1. Remove and clean the forks using mild soap and a sponge. Turn the rebound adjuster all the way out.

2. Put the spacer (Suzuki part number 09940-54850 or Honda part number 07KMZ-KZ30108)) on the bottom of the inner tube, fig 1. This spacer prevents the dust seal from damage while the inner tube is compressed). A spacer can be made from PVC pipe, fig 2.

Fig 1

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Fig 2

3. Remove the fork cap from the outer tube and let the outer tube slide down slowly.

4. Push down the spring and put a 17 mm open end wrench on the lock nut. Remove the fork cap while holding on to the 17 mm wrench, fig 3. Remove the fork spring.

Note: If the 17 mm wrench will not fit over the nut check to see if the wrench is too wide. If it is, you can grind your wrench thinner until it will fit. Do not overheat it while grinding it.

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Fig 3

5. While holding your hand over the end of the fork cylinder (this is where the fork cap threads to), turn the fork upside down to drain the oil out. While you are pumping the forks in and out, the push rod, needle, and spring will fall into your hands, fig 4 (some Showa forks do not have a spring).

Fig 4

6. Remove the lock nut and spring guide, fig 5.

Fig 5

7. Clamp the fork in a padded vise. Clamp the right fork on the axle holder and the left fork on the caliper bracket.

8. Stroke the fork through checking for any binds in the fork. It should move smoothly.

9. Slide the dust seal up and remove the retainer clip, fig 6.

Fig 6

Caution: Do not scratch the inner tube. If the tube is scratched it can cause the fork seals to leak.

10. Remove the outer tube by compressing and then quickly pulling the tube until the inner and outer tubes come apart.

11. Remove the circlip from the bottom of the fork, fig 7 (if installed).

Fig 7

12. Install the fork assembly tool (Suzuki part number 09940-30220) on the fork cylinder and remove the compression damping assembly and sealing washer, fig 8.

Caution: Do not use an air impact to remove or install the compression adjuster. The threads may be damaged.

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Fig 8

13. Remove the fork cylinder from the inner fork, fig 9.

Note: Showa fork cylinders are made so that the rebound valving cannot be serviced. There is a peened on retainer that cannot be removed without a special kit from Race Tech. Contact Race Tech for the needed parts if the fork cylinder needs additional repairs.

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Fig 9

14. Use a flat tipped screwdriver and open the slide bushing. Slide the bushing off. Remove the guide bushing, washer, oil seal, retainer, and dust seal, fig 10.

Fig 10

15. The stock compression valve assembly is very restrictive and causes harshness in the forks. Race Tech's Gold Valves vastly improves the forks ability to absorb bumps and jumps. Contact Race Tech for Gold Valves. If you are not installing Gold Valves, continue on to step 28 after cleaning all of the parts. The following instructions should be used along with the instruction sheet supplied with each Gold Valve kit. There are slight differences in kits an these instructions are only a guide.

16. Clean all of the parts in cleaning solvent and let dry. Inspect all of the parts.

17. Before removing the nut on the compression valve, the threads above the nut must be filed off. Use a file and file lightly the end of the threads until they are flush with the top of the nut.

18. Remove the nut, spring cup, check valve sleeve, check valve plate, base valve, low speed valve stack, high speed valve stack, and base plate, fig 11. Lay out the pieces in the order they came of the shaft. Clean and inspect the pieces.

Fig 11

19. Using the chart supplied with the Gold Valve, select the low and high speed valving.

20. Place the original base plate(s) (this is the very thick washer) on the shaft of the compression valve body.

21. Install the high speed valving starting with the smallest diameter and ending with the largest diameter shim.

22. Install the low speed valving (on the high speed valving) starting with the smallest diameter and ending with the largest diameter shim.

23. Install the o-ring on the outside of the Gold Valve and install the Gold Valve on the shaft with the recess on the piston facing up, fig 12.

Fig 12

24. Install the check valve sleeve, fig 13, on the shaft making sure it fits into the recess in the Gold Valve. Install the check valve plate and spring.

Fig 13

25. Install the spring cup on the shaft with the dished part facing down. Look at the threads on the shaft and make sure the check valve plate is higher than the end of the threads, fig 14. This is very critical. If the nut runs out of threads before tightening down the check valve plate and base valve, the nut may loosen and cause damage. Shims can be added beneath the base plate to make sure the nut will tighten down. Make sure the nut will tighten down and not run out of threads.

Fig 14

26. Use blue Locktight 242 on the shaft threads and carefully install the nut. Torque it to 48 inch/lbs. Do not torque it to more than 48 inch/lbs.

Note: Most 1995 thru 1997 use a "mid valve" located on the rebound piston (located inside the fork cylinder assembly). This works for supercross and some very aggressive pro riders but is too harsh for outdoor use. Race Tech recommends converting the "mid valve" back to the standard check plate design (just like the compression assembly). Remove the existing "mid valve" parts and reinstall the cupped washer, sleeve, check spring, check valve plate, rebound piston (recess towards check plate), rebound valving, base plate, and nut.

28. Inspect the inner tube for scratches, dents, and straightness. The tube must be replaced if there is any damage.

29. Inspect the outer tube for damage. Replace tube if there is any damage.

30. Inspect the fork cylinder, piston rod, and spring guide for scratches and bending. Replace them if they are damaged.

31. Inspect the guide and slide bushings for wear or damage. Look for metal chips and clean them off with a nylon brush and for oil.

32. Measure the length of the fork spring and compare it to the specifications listed in the service manual.

33. Place a piece of plastic over the end of the inner tube, oil the seals with fork oil, and slide the dust seal, retainer clip, and fork seal over the end of the tube, fig 15. The side of the fork seal that has the writing on it should face our or toward the dust seal.

Caution: The plastic will stop the seals from being damaged while installing them. A damaged seal will cause oil leaks.

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Fig 15

34. Remove the piece of plastic and install the washer, guide bushing, and slide bushing fig 10.

35. Insert the inner tube in the outer tube. Slide the fork seal in place and use a fork seal driver, fig 16, (Suzuki part number 09940-32720) to install the seal until the retainer clip groove is showing. A fork seal driver can be made from PVC pipe. Find a section of pipe that has the same inside diameter as the fork tube, then cut it in half lengthwise. Sand the cut line smooth until the outside diameter fits into the outer fork tube.

Fig 16

36. Install the retainer clip making sure it fits into the groove.

37. Push the dust seal into place.

38. Attach the spacer on the bottom of the inner tube and lower the outer tube down, fig 1.

39. Put the fork cylinder into the inner tube, fig 9, making sure that it is securely in the hole at the bottom of the axle holder. The easy way to check this is by looking through where the compression adjuster goes and looking to see if it is bottomed out.

40. Apply blue thread lock to the compression adjuster.

41. Install a new sealing washer on the compression adjuster. Install the compression adjuster in the fork and torque it to 54-62 ft/lbs or 75-85 Nm while using the holding tool.

42. Install the circlip over the compression adjuster making sure it is in the groove.

43. Install the spring guide on the fork cylinder with the long tapered end facing up. Install the lock nut and install by hand until it stops (the wrench flats should face down), fig 17. There should be at least 14 mm (.551 inch) of threads exposed above the nut.

Fig 17

44. Install the return spring, needle (long taper faces down), and push rod into the rod pipe, fig 4.

45. Fill the fork with the correct oil until it almost is full and stroke the inner tube a few times. Pull the piston rod up and down to bleed the rod assembly. Set the fork oil height using a fork oil height gauge tool to your specification, fig 18. Make the forks are bottomed and the spacer is still install on the inner tube while checking fork oil height.

46. Pull the piston rod up and install the fork spring and fork cap. Torque the fork cap to 14.5-17.5 ft/lbs (20-24 Nm). Showa piston rods are easy to strip while installing the fork cap to it. Race Tech makes a kit that repairs the rod and makes it stronger. Contact Race Tech for these parts.

47. Install the fork cap to the outer fork tube making sure the o-ring on the cap is not damaged. Torque the cap to 3.0-4.0 Kg-m.

Fig 18

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